Walking in a barren lava wasteland

As a last parting adventure, Mom, Dad, Rishi and I headed all the way down past Kihei, past Wailea, past Makena to La Perouse Bay at the very southern tip of the island. The slopes of Haleakala transform from lush green pastures studded with pine trees higher up on the volcano, to a rocky barren lava field along the seacoast. The most recent eruptions occurred in the 1600’s, which sent molten lava cascading down to meet the sea and creating the vast lava deposits that now make up the Ahihi Kina’u Natural Area Reserve and La Perouse Bay. It was at this place that the first Westerners set foot on Maui. Explorer Jean Francois de Galaup made land here in 1786 and were greeted by native Hawaiians from the village of Keone’o’io.

La Perouse Bay is a place of natural raw beauty – the black lava rocks contrast sharply against pieces of bleached white coral and the jagged petrified magma creates an eerie moonlike environment. Along the rocky edge, waves crash against the craggy formations and the water boils in and out of water-worn caverns. A trail winds its way between tall pillars of solidified lava, following the coastline and granting stellar views of the blue Pacific and the never-ending horizon.

We followed the path passed blowholes that sent a spray of seawater into the air with a giant whoosh when a wave came crashing to shore. We entered a small stand of kiawe trees, their limbs twisted and tangled into an indiscernible mass. The trail continued on through the a’a lava flow and we stopped to snap pictures of secluded coves, the crystalline water protected by the turbulent seas by a high rocky shelf. We vowed to go swimming at one on the way back, but when we returned the tide had risen and the calm glassy pool was now a whirlpool of white water.

About two miles from the trailhead we came to an open coral graveyard. A stagnant green pool lay off to the left, filled, no doubt with blue-green algae. The pebble-strewn beach was rimmed with slabs of smooth lava rock, making swimming impossible, but we found enjoyment simply sitting on wind polished tree stumps or collected erratically shaped coral figures. Old Hawaiian stone walls and house formations can still be discovered and stone cairns are scattered all over the shoreline. The trail continues on for several more miles, but the lack of shade and water drove us back the way we had come. Instead of following the main trail, however, we meandered along on footpaths that brought us to the ultimate edge of the lava flow and rewarded us with birds-eye views of the transparent blue ocean below.

Like many special places on Maui, the King’s Highway is off the beaten path. If you’re looking for a respite from crowded beaches, tourist traps or merely need a break from sunbathing on the beach, take a few hours to explore the hidden coves and stark beauty of the Highway’s lava flows. It will ground you and bring you back in touch with nature.

Photo Gallery!

I’ve started to put together a photo gallery of all my favorite pics. It’s coming along slowly, so far I only have Africa and Flowers done, but I’m hoping to get all up and running before I fly out. Click on the the Photos link to the right and browse my pictures!

To Hana and Back Again

First off, I’m sure you’ve all noticed my new and updated blog look! Let me know if you like it or if I should change it back (or to another template). Secondly, I realize this is a long post and I’ve already written about Hana, but when I started writing, I just couldn’t stop! Hope you like it!

TO HANA

That said, this past Friday we finally made it to Hana. It’s about a 2 1/2 hour drive from Paia depending on how often you stop and how much traffic there is. The road (aptly named Hana Highway) winds for 52 miles along the north coast of Maui. It overlooks the blue Pacific Ocean, descends into lush tropical rainforests with vines draping down from mossy tree limbs and passes through quaint fishing villages with fruit stands offering fresh papaya, coconut, and banana bread. There are 59 narrow bridges that span deep gullies and gulches and pass beneath trickling waterfalls. We stopped at one bridge and I followed a rocky path to a series of waterfalls cascading down from the slopes of Haleakala. Farther along we visited Wainapanapa State park where we enjoyed lunch while looking out over the blue blue ocean. After lunch Dad went swimming at the black sand beach and Mom and I took a stroll along the lava flow. The water was so clear we could see all the way to the bottom.

We finally arrived in Hana around two, but didn’t stay long. Despite the hype and reputation given to Hana Highway, one would think that Hana has fallen into the mire that the rest of the island has succumbed to: luxurious highrises, fancy restaurants, and touristy boutiques. Not so. Hana is a sleepy town with only a handful of hotels and inns offering rooms to those who find the peacefulness and beauty of the east side too enchanting to leave after only a day. A small harbor sits on a black sand beach and locals often hang out til dusk. Restaurants, stores and shops shut down at seven and as we were leaving to head back to Makawao, I half expected the lights to go out as well.

About 8 miles outside of Hana, the backside of Haleakala National Park extends down into the Kipahulu area and incorporates the Pools at Oheo Gulch, also known as the Seven Sacred Pools. Looking down at them from above, they look like stepping stones that descend down into the ocean. The Pipiwai Trail ascends up from the pools and passes the 185-foot Makahiku Falls. Unfortunately the waterfall wasn’t running, so Mom and Dad didn’t get to see its display, but the pool and view of the valley at the top was still beautiful. The riverbed was dry enough for me to walk up the canyon for a bit to get some pictures (and practice my bouldering skills), but I was met with a deep pool right before the trail began again, so I had to backtrack and take the well-trodden route past a guava groove and beneath the spreading limbs of a banyan tree.

When I finally caught up to mom and dad, they had just passed over the bridge that separates the wooded forest from an extensive bamboo grove. For the next mile or so we walked with our heads craned upwards to watch the swaying of the tall bamboo stalks as they moved with the wind, clacking each time they knocked into each other. At the end of the trail we were met with a magnificent view of Waimoku Falls, a 400-foot stream of crystal clear water cascading down a shear lava rock face. It was a place of peace and serenity.

It was getting late, so we headed back down to the parking area and walked around the lower pools for a bit. We talked about spending the night in Hana, but decided against it since we didn’t have a tent and the mosquitoes were beginning to dine on our blood. We tried going back along the Piilani Highway on the south coast, but due to rock slides it has been closed for the past year and there was no getting past the roadblocks. Driving the Hana Highway at night was like riding a roller coaster with your eyes closed. Luckily there was very little traffic and we made it home in about two hours.

AND BACK AGAIN

I think my family is either adverse to normal adventures or we’re simply incapable of going on a normal outing. Whichever it may be, Dad and I ended up biking to Hana on Sunday. Our plan was to have Mom drive us up to Kula (check), bike down the Kula highway to the Piilani Highway (Check) and take the Kings Highway Trail over to La Peruse bay where we could easily bike to Wailea and catch a bus back to Kahului or even up to Makawao (no check). We ended up biking the whole of Piilani Highway because 1) a women told us that King’s Highway was private property and if we were caught biking it, they would confiscate our bikes and 2) we never found the trail head. The ride was beautiful. Past green pastures studded with black lava rock; the slopes of Haleakala to the left and the open ocean to our right. The road was very narrow and there were very few cars and houses. As we continued on, the road got steadily worse until some parts of it were actually unpaved and ridden with potholes. After about 40 miles we passed through the town of Kaupo which consisted of one closed general store. At 50 miles we passed the Oheo Gulch where we had hiked just two days before. Then came Hana at 55 miles and 5 hours after we had started biking. Did I mention I had to work that night at 4:30? It was already 2:30 and we still had 46 miles to go. Our plan was to keep biking and stick our thumb out each time a truck passed. 10 miles passed and still we had no ride. Finally a woman in a white pick up truck mercifully stopped for us and we loaded our bikes into the bed and hopped in the back and rested our aching legs.

I’ve learned to never expect anything when going out for a day trip or even a two hour bike ride with my family. A leisurely kayak excursion turns into a five hour “where the hell are we” journey and a simple hike results in a few hours crouching in a cave waiting for the rain to stop. That’s what makes memories though, and although they may be frustrating and tiring at the time, I would never settle for anything else.

Catching up on our adventures

I’m finding it so hard to keep up with my blog! Mom and dad have been keeping me busy (or vice versa…) with snorkeling trips, road trips, and other activities. On Monday we were sucked into listening to a time share presentation (in return for a great discount on the dinner sunset cruise). We all went into it thinking that we’d be on our way in a hour or so, but we ended up staying for four hours and almost got sucked into buying a timeshare! I wrote an article about it, which you can read here. After the presentation we spent the afternoon on Ka’anapali snorkeling and soaking up that rays then headed back to Makawao via Kahekili highway, which runs along the coast of west Maui (the 35 mile bike ride I did, but the opposite direction). I told dad that we should fill up the gas tank before we hit the road, but he didn’t listen and luckily we made it, although the gauge read below empty when we rolled into Kahului. Kahekili highway is quite narrow and often one-laned at times with no guardrail. Add sharp switchbacks and blind corners and that’s pretty much what we drove with very little brakes and very little gas. As a family, we seem to like to do things the difficult way.

On Tuesday we headed to Kihei and rented kayaks to go out and chill with the whales for a few hours. We got really close, 20 feet at times, and they weren’t afraid to swim close. It was an amazing feeling to be that close to something so big and powerful. Whales are such incredible creatures, I can’t wait to see more of them in the Baja and Alaska.

Lastly, Mom, Dad, my friend Sean and I hiked the Waihee Valley Trail today. It was pretty much flat all the way, which was good for mom, but the scenery was beautiful. Lots of jungly vegetation, dry streambeds, old irrigation canals that ran through tunnels, and jagged mountains rising up all around us. We also had to cross two very narrow swinging bridges constructed out of pieces of plywood, thick cables and bent pieces of wire. It was a little nerve-wracking, especially when the bridges started to bounce and sway, but we got a kick out of watching Rishi attempt a crossing. He got about 10 feet, then decided it wasn’t such a good idea and tried to turn around. He ended up splayed on four feet and Dad had to help him get down, getting doused with Rishi urine in the process. At the end of a trail was a beautiful crystal clear swimming hole with a small waterfall. None of us had bathing suits on and the water was freezing, but dad jumped in anyway.

Tomorrow we make the trek to Hana, so check back for more posts and pictures!

Biking Map

Dad and I have been doing a lot of biking and I’ve decided that instead of writing about all the different rides we’ve been going on, I would just create a map of the routes. So, here’s a link to my google map of all the rides I’ve been on since I arrived in Maui. Keep checking back because I’m sure I’ll be adding more!